Don't Buy a Vintage Watch Before Reading This

If you don’t know what to look for, buying a vintage watch can be a jungle. With this guide, you'll be well prepared.

If you’re in the market for a vintage watch from brands like Omega, Rolex, or Cartier, there are many pitfalls to be aware of as a buyer. In this guide, we’ll walk you through some of the most common ones, so you can be confident in your purchase.

Buy the seller

The golden rule in the world of vintage watches is this: buy the seller, not the watch. As there are so many small details that can affect the value of a vintage timepiece, you need to know what you’re looking at. That level of knowledge only comes with years of experience and by handling hundreds of watches. Even when buying from a dealer, there’s no guarantee that they actually know what they have in stock.

Unfortunately, we often see dealers selling watches that fall far short of the standards we uphold at Cph Vintage Watches. We occasionally receive watches that were bought in good faith from other sellers but have to turn them down for the same reasons. Common issues include swapped hands or watches presented as rare when they’re not.

At Cph Vintage Watches, we’re collectors ourselves, and we use our experience to stand fully behind every watch we sell. We don’t claim to be experts in every brand, but have chosen a few that we know inside and out. We also offer a six-month warranty. That way, you avoid the many issues that can turn buying a vintage watch into a disappointing experience. Below, we’ve listed some of the most common things to watch out for.

Beware of re-dials

A “re-dial” is a watch dial that has been repainted. This often happens when water has damaged the original dial, and someone has attempted to recreate it with a new print — including minute markers and brand logos, such as Omega. This was once a fairly common practice among watchmakers before watches became collectibles. Today, however, it’s mostly done by sellers who aren’t being entirely honest.

The problem with re-dials is that they significantly reduce a watch’s value. The dial is one of the few parts of a vintage watch that can’t be replaced, so it’s crucial to know what you’re buying. Sometimes it’s easy to spot a re-dial; other times, it takes real expertise. For instance, on certain vintage Omega Seamasters, the shape of the “S” in “Seamaster” changed at a specific point in the 1960s. If you see the earlier style on a later watch, something’s wrong.

“Frankenwatches” can be hard to spot

Most people know Frankenstein’s monster — in the watch world, a “Frankenwatch” refers to a watch assembled from parts of different watches. Since watches are functional tools, it’s completely normal for certain movement parts to be replaced with identical ones from the same period. But in many cases, other, more visible components have also been swapped.

For example, specific references came with specific hands, matching that reference only. Knowing which hands are correct for which model takes expertise. So if you’re hunting for a vintage watch, keep a sharp eye and know your details.

Patina isn’t always a good thing

The word patina is often used loosely — it’s a subjective term. Many sellers use it as a flattering way to describe watches that are simply worn or damaged, especially when the dial is badly affected.

In some cases, patina can be desirable. Certain vintage Rolex models, for instance, can increase in value if they have a “ghosted” bezel. But for others — such as vintage Omega Seamaster or Constellation models — that’s not the case.

As a rule of thumb, if a watch shows patina, it should be reflected in the price unless it adds a particularly attractive and sought-after look. As a buyer, look for even, natural patina — or consider spending a little more on a watch in better condition. And pay attention to the material of the case; some age better than others. We’ve made a separate guide to vintage watch materials if you want to learn more.

Repairs can get expensive quickly

Vintage watches are made up of tiny components that require specialised knowledge to service or repair. We often see buyers who have picked up a “cheap” vintage watch privately, only to discover that repair costs run into the thousands because the watch hasn’t been properly maintained.

Buying through a trusted dealer will naturally be more expensive up front. But if you take into account servicing and repair costs, the total price may well end up being lower than for a private purchase.

At Cph Vintage Watches, every watch is thoroughly tested before being offered for sale. We use professional equipment to measure timekeeping accuracy, and we conduct a manual inspection. If anything’s off, a certified watchmaker restores the movement to meet our quality standards.

It’s worth noting that “watchmaker” isn’t a protected title in Denmark. We work exclusively with fully qualified watchmakers who have completed the four-year horology program in Ringsted — the only official watchmaking education in Denmark.

Condition is everything

Finally, there’s one rule that ties everything together: condition is everything. Even the smallest details can make a huge difference in price, so again, make sure you’re buying from someone who truly knows the brand they’re selling.

As a general rule, we at Cph Vintage Watches recommend going for the best condition your budget allows — these watches tend to hold their value better over time.

At Cph Vintage Watches, we specialise in finding the finest pieces on the vintage market. We stand behind every watch we sell and decline many that don’t meet our standards. That way, you can be confident that you’re getting a watch you’ll be happy with.

Curious about our collection? Click below to explore our wide selection of beautiful vintage watches.

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